Take the two halves of the board and see if you can try to fit them back together. Dings need to be dry before laminating.
Decide whether you will be able to get the rocker right and the two halves of the board lined up. The stinger may be crushed and need trimming away.
Also the foam may need some sanding.
Trim back broken fiberglass.
You do not need to sand the glass back yet.
The board can be lined up on a flat surface or standing against a vertical wall.
Use blocks or packers to adjust the two halves to get the rocker line curve correct. Masking tape can be used to hold it in position
NB: Resin is catalyzed at 1%. Say in a cup of resin, on a mild day 3mills of catalyst will give you about 10 minutes to work before gelling.
Make up a slurry of resin and Q cell the consistency of toothpaste catalyze and apply to both sides of the break and press the 2 halves together. You may need to pour more into the gaps as it gels.
Check all angles for correct line up of rocker, tail and bottom.
Leave resin to harden and the two halves to become rigid again.
Strip all wax from deck.
Gently place board on sanding stands to sand back glass on both sides of the break.
Feather the edge back a few inches for a nose snap and a little more for a centre snap, say 100mm either side.
You will be replacing two or three layers of cloth and sanding it flat, so you don’t want a bump or a dip. So when the new patch of glass is sanded flat it retains its strength.
Fill any holes and sand flat.
When you have sanded the glass on both sides of the break, cut your fiberglass patches of cloth to cover the break and sanded area. And to wrap around the rails.
Build the layers of cloth up so they feather out to make it a flatter transition to the old surface..
Mix up 1 cup of laminating resin and catalyze, laminate the glass strips evenly across the break. Squeegee out excess resin and bubbles and wrap glass around rails.
Clean brushes and tools in acetone.
Allow to harden and then turn board over.
When hard turn over.
Sand wrapped lap smooth, fill holes. Repeat cutting glass strips as before for the other side.
Laminate this side with the same technique using resin and glass as required, again to make a flat patch to sand.
When hard, filler coat, allow to gel hard then turn over and filler coat other side.
Allow a few hours before sanding.
With a disc sander, sand the filler resin smooth.
Feather the patch in without sanding into the old cloth and making another weak point. You may need to add more cloth. But the more you add, the heavier the repair.
Be as neat as possible with all your stages.
Fill any air bubbles or holes and resand.
You may wish to hide the repair with some artwork or paint.
The repair will have to be sanded to 240 grit. Any scratches from coarser papers will show up in the paint.
Sand everywhere the paint needs to stick, tape up the design and spray-paint.
For a long board, it will probably need finish coating with resin. Again the sanded area needs to be past the end of the new paint, so the finish coat covers and adheres to the old surface. This allows the finish coat to be sanded and rubbed into the old surface with a smooth transition so you can’t see the join or line.
Wet rub from 800, 1200 to 2000 grit wet n dry and polish finish with a cutting compound like mirror glaze or green max.
For short boards, make smooth to 240 grit, spray-paint and clear coat.
Neatly wet rub to blend in with the old surface finish. I hope this has helped you to fix a Snaped or Broken Surfboard